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Boulevard Bistrot

Robb Walsh has an interesting review of Monica Pope's Boulevard Bistrot in this week's Houston Press. Pope is a huge (liberal) activist, but she also really knows her food. I don't generally make a habit of using certified organic foods, but this is worth thinking about:

When you bite into an heirloom vegetable or an obscure grain that's been prepared by a chef as good as Pope, you suddenly realize what we've all been missing. The American agricultural system, with its giant monoculture farms and an ever-shrinking list of varietals, has sacrificed flavor and natural diversity for the convenience of corporate food producers.

At Boulevard Bistrot, Monica Pope is out to change all that, one plate at a time.

Fair enough -- in feeding the world as cheaply as we do, American farmers probably have sacrificed some taste. And a high-end restaurant ought to work to resurrect some of that lost taste.

So there ya go.

I used to hit Boulevard for Sunday brunch a lot. Not quite sure why I don't ever make it over there any more. It's almost always Chuy's for brunch these days. Mmmmm... creamy jalapeno!

[Posted at 17:39 CST on 02/16/03] [Link]

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