We’re slow getting around for and after breakfast today, but that’s okay — we’re on vacation!
Today, it’s off to explore the NW coast of the island, to Apollonas. During the drive, I managed to add time to two unlocked GSM phones via the COSMOTE cards. Yay me!
We pass through Galini, then Eggares, then by a dam. Very unusual. Proceeding on past another dam, we stop at an old castle (there are castles all over the Greek isles). Past the castle is a path we follow to an old monastery — Moni Faneromis (apparently). There is a spring that flows past, and on down the side of the mountain. What an idyllic place. I can understand why monks would hole up here.
On to Apollonas, which turns out to be a charming beach village with a number of hotels and tavernas, but not so much development that a person would ever feel overrun. (well, maybe the locals do).
Apollon Restaurant is overbusy and understaffed. The food is really good though. While we’re there, we observe a Euro-lady swimming in the cold seas. BRRR! Later, a Euro-man and child go swimming. BRRR! Two French/English speaking girls stumble into the taverna. The way they say “thank yoooooo” is amusing.
After lunch, we stop at a small market to get batteries for Callie’s camera. I pet a friendly dog in the back of a farm truck. The Greeks inside the store seem concerned for a bit. Then they conclude, “Eh, Americano,” nod, and no longer seem concerned. Whatever damage the New York Times says W has caused to our reputation in the world, the Greeks apparently think we are just crazy in love with dogs.
Off we go to check out one of the nearby Kouros. Umm — okay. It looks like one of the Easter Island things. I don’t really understand, but oh well. The hike up gives us a nice view of the village at least.
On the route back, we decide to check out more kouros, detouring down to Kouronouchori and Mili, and hitting the footpaths. We pass a place called Paradies (sic) Garden. It is an okay garden, but “paradies” is a stretch. There is a lady bellowing at us in Greek. I have no idea what. Oh well. The kouros further along is not that exciting.
Back to Chora we go. The Europcar people have come looking for Callie. She forgot to tell them we are staying an extra day. So they take her away to take care of this, and she returns in short order. THAT is customer service!
Next chore — laundry. We find a lady at a shop to handle this, with pickup in the morning, well before checkout. Perfect. This will get us through the trip.
On our way to our last dinner on Naxos, we grab tickets for the ferry oat to Amorgos for the next day. We will be taking the Express Skopelitis, a small Cyclades ferry. On to the fish restaurant that was so good. More fish, and more local white wine from the barrel. MMM! Zizi hits the waiter up for an Irish Coffee (!?) as we are being seated. He seems perplexed, but game, explaining in English “We don’t get many of these, but we’ll try.” Later, when she’s nearly done, he makes a joke about “Irish coffee goes well with potatoes and salad” and half-laughs. This struck me as hilarious, so I laughed heartily, at which point HE laughs heartily. this is the same burly Greek fellow who waited on us the first night. Later, we notice him carrying on inside with a number of guys of roughly the same shape. I think this is the place where the burly locals all stop! Instead of Citron tonight, he comps us some chocolate ball/cookie dough type dessert things. They are YUMMY.
It’s chilly as we walk back (actually, it’s been cloudy, cool, and windy all day — blar), then some research on places to stay in Amorgos. It’s looking like a choice between the Minoan Hotel in Katapola, Mike Hotel at Aegiali, and Agios Pavlos studios in the middle of nowhere.
ZZZZzzzz.