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Hell. Frozen?

Something seems terribly wrong.

My hero Robb Walsh actually PRAISES a new Tilman Fertita restaurant (no, not the retarded Aquarium):

After years of eating shopping center steaks at Morton's, Palm and Capital Grille, I am astonished by the one-of-a-kind integrity of Vic & Anthony's. This isn't an Outback with social pretensions like the insipid Fleming's. This is a home-grown steakhouse that clearly outclasses the national cookie-cutter chains. And that's a huge step forward for the Houston restaurant scene.

"Maybe Tilman Fertitta has turned over a new leaf," I suggest to my skeptical friend. She agrees that Vic & Anthony's is better than the chains, but she isn't as ready to forgive Fertitta's past sins as I am.

"He hasn't done enough penance yet," she says.

Ha.

Still, you have to think Walsh is onto something here. It wouldn't take much to improve upon the national "premium" steakhouses if you're an enterprising restaurateur with deep pockets (like Fertita). And you really don't have to work that hard to beat Fleming's, from the sounds of things.

So I may have to go try this place one of these days.

[Posted at 17:47 CST on 06/25/03] [Link]

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